Bit of an epic blog post this one as this is the first time in about 3 days we have had decent internet connection. But have been blogging away regularly - just hope this posts!
Friday 29th April
Manado
Sulawesi
22.36
We arrived by boat to Manado around 4pm-ish and by the time we got driven to the centre and checked into our hotel it was gone 5pm. And in time to see the hour before the glide up the aisle!
Not being into anything remotely royal or celebrity, Mat had the right raving hump that I wanted to see THE dress. It didn’t help that the Indonesian channel covering the royal wedding had a couple of English ‘special guests’ to comment on the wedding and they were coming out with so much drivel I had to mute them. I had absolutely no idea who these two ‘experts’ were but they could have been a couple of tourists who looked the part and plonked in front of the camera for all we knew.
Didn’t she look beautiful? Although I was a little surprised at how ‘traditional’ and a little plain her dress looked. I thought she would have gone for something more like her sister’s sexy bridesmaid dress (is she a hottie or what?!).
Anyway, once I had seen Princess Catherine do her thing, Mat dragged me out of our hotel to explore Manado. I’m sure there are picturesque parts to it but we certainly didn’t see any and as we are only here this one evening we probably won’t either.
Big, sprawling, and noisy it’s everything Bunaken isn’t and a bit of an assault to the senses. We ended up at ‘Megamall Manado’ as we had been told it was a must visit. Typical Essex girl ending up at a shopping mall on a Friday night! It was h-u-g-e and puts Lakeside to shame. Mat and I didn’t even dent it with our visit as we only saw one section of it and to be perfectly honest that was enough.
It was ever so noisy with lots of flashing lights, neon and the pow, pow, pow of computer games from the gaming section. We would have sought refuge outside except there was a concert going on where Sulawesi’s answer to Guns and Roses was going all ‘rock’ on us and then when the Avril Lavigne wannabe started singing it was time to run before our ears started bleeding.
We headed out to the sea front in search of warungs for a bite to eat as recommended by Lonely Planet but these warungs were nowhere to be found. Typical Lonely Planet mis-information although to be fair to them, we think the warungs may have been moved on or dismantled. We eventually stumbled upon ‘The Club’ restaurant which turned out to be quite a nice place. Good food and drink and possibly the most over-attentive waiter in Manado. My god, if he could have got any closer to us he would have joined us for dinner sitting on Mat’s lap! I think he was just being helpful but oh my life!
Before I go, I need to tell you about our hotel room. Hotel Minihasa in its heyday in the 1970s would have looked amazing and to a certain extent it still does and it has all the facilities - pool, gym, sauna etc.
It is quite possibly the tallest hotel I have seen in a long while but not in a ‘tower’ way, more of a lets add something else to it way so an extension just gets added on to the plant and shrubbery mountain it sits on. The pool bit at the top looks nice but I haven’t ventured up yet as I may need climbing shoes and a rope to get there it is so high up!
Manado
Sulawesi
22.36
We arrived by boat to Manado around 4pm-ish and by the time we got driven to the centre and checked into our hotel it was gone 5pm. And in time to see the hour before the glide up the aisle!
Not being into anything remotely royal or celebrity, Mat had the right raving hump that I wanted to see THE dress. It didn’t help that the Indonesian channel covering the royal wedding had a couple of English ‘special guests’ to comment on the wedding and they were coming out with so much drivel I had to mute them. I had absolutely no idea who these two ‘experts’ were but they could have been a couple of tourists who looked the part and plonked in front of the camera for all we knew.
Didn’t she look beautiful? Although I was a little surprised at how ‘traditional’ and a little plain her dress looked. I thought she would have gone for something more like her sister’s sexy bridesmaid dress (is she a hottie or what?!).
Anyway, once I had seen Princess Catherine do her thing, Mat dragged me out of our hotel to explore Manado. I’m sure there are picturesque parts to it but we certainly didn’t see any and as we are only here this one evening we probably won’t either.
Big, sprawling, and noisy it’s everything Bunaken isn’t and a bit of an assault to the senses. We ended up at ‘Megamall Manado’ as we had been told it was a must visit. Typical Essex girl ending up at a shopping mall on a Friday night! It was h-u-g-e and puts Lakeside to shame. Mat and I didn’t even dent it with our visit as we only saw one section of it and to be perfectly honest that was enough.
It was ever so noisy with lots of flashing lights, neon and the pow, pow, pow of computer games from the gaming section. We would have sought refuge outside except there was a concert going on where Sulawesi’s answer to Guns and Roses was going all ‘rock’ on us and then when the Avril Lavigne wannabe started singing it was time to run before our ears started bleeding.
We headed out to the sea front in search of warungs for a bite to eat as recommended by Lonely Planet but these warungs were nowhere to be found. Typical Lonely Planet mis-information although to be fair to them, we think the warungs may have been moved on or dismantled. We eventually stumbled upon ‘The Club’ restaurant which turned out to be quite a nice place. Good food and drink and possibly the most over-attentive waiter in Manado. My god, if he could have got any closer to us he would have joined us for dinner sitting on Mat’s lap! I think he was just being helpful but oh my life!
Before I go, I need to tell you about our hotel room. Hotel Minihasa in its heyday in the 1970s would have looked amazing and to a certain extent it still does and it has all the facilities - pool, gym, sauna etc.
It is quite possibly the tallest hotel I have seen in a long while but not in a ‘tower’ way, more of a lets add something else to it way so an extension just gets added on to the plant and shrubbery mountain it sits on. The pool bit at the top looks nice but I haven’t ventured up yet as I may need climbing shoes and a rope to get there it is so high up!
And as for our room - well. Talk about an homage to the seventies with its sunken lounge area and raised super king sized bed. It’s brilliant! All I need is Burt Reynolds and his hairy chest complete with medallion and 1977 here we come! Boom chikka wah wah!
And so to sleep. We have an early plane to catch. Bonne nuit and all that.
Saturday 30th April
Rantepao
Tana Toraja
Southern Sulawesi
22.47
What an epically tiring day. Really glad it’s over and I’m installed in a nice comfy bed although the mattress is so high I feel abit like the princess and the pea! Nice and clean room at the Hotel Indra Toraja after a bit of a room swap earlier. Mat and I wasn’t feeling the love in their deluxe room because of the damp smell and general claustrophobia of it but this superior is much nicer. We did consider their ‘suite’ but having seen it, we didn’t think we needed a dining room area for the extra price! Very random.
We left Manado to catch our 6.45am flight to Makassar. From Makassar we met our main guide/tour organiser Dodo - ‘the Pen Man of Makassar’ (long story) who in turn introduced us to our driver Mr Tan who again introduced us to Yatim our other guide here for the Toraja tours. Honestly, its like meeting characters from a film but its all worked out ok so far. Especially when all the organising was done by Mat online from recommendations from various travel forums.
The flight from Manado to Makassar only took an hour but the drive to Makassar to here took nine (9) hours. Yep, you read that correctly. Nine hours. The only flights currently accepted at the airport near to here are private ones and as our jet is currently in the garage, sadly we had to opt for the drive down.
The only reason the 200 miles or so drive took so long was because there is only one usable road down and vehicles at most points don’t go very fast. And it’s full of massive potholes, stretches being repaired, scooters, motorbikes, buses, coaches, animals, cement lorries and various pedestrians of all ages. Thank goodness Mr Tan is a good driver and the mini-van we were in comfortable as it was all a little bone jarring and nerve wracking at times! We had a few stop-overs and lunch in a town called Pare Pare but I was still astounded at how long it took. That new M6 toll is heaven sent I tell you and I’m never going to moan about it ever again.
One of our more funny stop-overs was at ‘Erotic Mountain’ so called because it looks like, ahem, sorry to be crude, a woman lying with her legs apart. Nice. It kinda did you know but I wouldn’t advise Googling for images as you never know what you might get!
Anyway, being in Toraja land we are very much looking forward to learning about, meeting and seeing these guys.
We have seen quite a few of the impressive tongkanans on the way up here and Mat’s got his big, posh Canon at the ready for some good piccies. Apparently, we could be lucky and there may be a funeral for us to attend while we are so here’s hoping. It’s really bad I know to actually be looking forward to a funeral but given we’ve come all the way down here, it would be good to attend one especially as the Torajans spend their whole lives preparing for it and the whole ceremony is supposedly really interesting.
Just hoping that the weather isn’t going to be as wet as today which has been awful. A complete deluge. As we were mostly travelling it didn’t really affect us but fingers crossed for our tour tomorrow.
Sunday 1st May
Rantepao
Tana Toraja
Southern Sulawesi
16.03
I can’t believe it is the first of May already. Doesn’t time fly? We have just got back from a full day of sight-seeing with our guide and driver. Really fascinating day where we learnt loads of Tana Toraja stuff although I am a little ‘graved’ out. I think Mat feels the same. I know that historically and archaeologically it is all important and significant but right now I feel a bit like that boy from ‘Sixth Sense’ when he says he sees dead people.
I think I have seen more graves in mountains and trees, hanging coffins, skeletons and skulls today than I ever will. And these were just from a few hundred years ago to about 2008. Not even an actual funeral attended yet! Our man is still on death-alert and our schedule here is dependent on that. Blimey, what with all my cancer experiences, it’s a good job I’m not too sensitive about these things!
Anyway, the weather held out although we did get a little showered on but nothing major. We got to see some amazing scenery and lots of water buffalo. During our wanders Mat kept getting Indonesians asking if they could have their photo taken with him what with him being all tall, white and blue-eyed. I think that’s the reason and not because he looks a little bit like Harry Potter but you never know...
I mistakenly ended up in one photo with him and the group chased Mat again and requested another photo with him without asking me to be in it! Charming.
I have had quite a few Indonesians chat away to me only to be disappointed when I say I no speak Bahasa. Apparently, a lot of them think I am from Java - not quite sure why but Java being the most cosmopolitan part of Indonesia, I think its my short hair that’s doing it. I have yet to see women here with hair as short as mine.
Never mind taking photos of Mat, the children we have been meeting have been absolutely adorable and very friendly although they run away past the first ‘hello’ and ‘how are you’. I may end up with one in my rucksack as they are so cute.
Tourist wise, the whole region is fairly quiet at the moment with only a handful of non-Indonesians including us wandering around. The roads are bad enough now so I can only imagine what it is like during the summer months when it is full capacity here. We have been told that Toraja has three seasons - dry, wet and tourist! I think it would drive me insane being here during the height of the tourist season. It is bad enough negotiating the tiny roads now when you have to let other vehicles through every five minutes, so I can only imagine the frustration in the summer months with the intense heat and other visitors milling about. Everything also doubles/triples in price but needs must and all that for the Torajans.
Mat has gone for an explore round the town looking for ear plugs and I am going for a massage. We forgot to bring our ear plugs and when you get some wally that has drilled holes in his scooter exhaust fronting up like it’s a motorbike it is VERY NOISY especially as there is no double glazing in the hotel. We can’t really do anything about it as motorbikes/scooters are the main form of transport round here but just want to avoid another episode of the Rantepao ‘yoot’ giving it large like last night. I think it was because it was Saturday night and you know what boys and girls are like when they are trying to impress each other.
Anyway, not quite sure when this is going to be posted as internet connection here is really bad. Over and out for now.
Mat’s just got back and apparently no ear plugs - he was told that Indonesians round here just stick tissues in their ears!
22.36
Just back from a delicious meal at a local restaurant recommended by LP. We will probably go back there tomorrow to sample traditional Torajan food as they needed at least 2 hours notice apparently to prepare it. I’m quite looking forward to tasting buffalo as I have never had it.
Had an embarrassing experience at my massage earlier. I was expecting a foot massage but the lady mis-heard ‘full massage’ and must have thought I looked a complete fool as I lay there fully clothed with my trousers rolled up to my knees. I think she was trying not to laugh as she discretely told me to disrobe and I got all weirded out as I thought how strange for a foot massage until I realised what was going on! Anyway, it was great all the same.
Also, I wont be needing the ear plugs tonight as it is all quiet outside. Apart from the odd puut puut of a bike and the rain (yet again!), its peaceful. Fantastic. Another early start tomorrow so I’m off for some zeds now. Bonne nuit.
Monday 2nd May
Rantepao
Tana Toraja
Southern Sulawesi
17.04
Blimey. We walk into our room, turn the TV on and breaking news is that Osama Bin Laden is dead. Wow. We’re not quite sure of the facts as we can’t find an English speaking news channel but we have worked out enough to know from Indonesian news that he is dead and the Americans somehow are involved. Talk about reality crashing into our world!
We had another good day sight-seeing today. Not so many graves but more picturesque villages and absolutely stunning scenery. Mile upon mile of amazing views of rice terraces, mountains and forests. It’s days like this that I am happy to be alive and grateful that I am lucky enough to be able to see and experience such incredible vistas. As our guide Yatim said, ‘it’s like paradise’. I don’t think any of our photos will do any of the views we saw justice. As we were venturing higher and higher up into the mountains, it got a little hairy on the tiny mountain roads which were even narrower and more pot-holed. As I have said previously, it’s a good job Mr Tan is a good driver! It all got a bit white knuckle ride at some points.
The weather now is atrocious. Absolutely bucketing it down. No wonder everything is so lush and green up here - it is all this frikkin rain! Bright sunshine for half the day and then rain. We were supposed to go trekking earlier but our guide cancelled it as he didn’t want us ending up like buffalos i.e. in the mud and for that I was grateful. I think if Mat was on his own he would have gone for it but as he is with me, you can forget it. I’m quite happy to be trekking in the mini-van thank you very much even though it is a little bone jarring at times!
We saw a couple at a rest stop in the mountains while we were having drinks and I did feel a little sorry for the girl in the couple. She looked such a fragile thing (I think she was Japanese) and I got the impression she would rather not have been trekking. She looked a bit fed up and hot and I did feel for her as they set off amongst the rice terraces and forests just as the heavens opened big stylee. Oh dear. Ever practical, Mat was more concerned about them having covers for their rucksacks!
This morning was blazing sunshine and we spent part of it at Rantepao’s main market, Pasar Bolu. As It’s only held every six days our guide felt that we had to experience it. It felt like the whole of Tana Toraja was there today especially in the livestock market. What an eye opener and every vegetarian and animal rights person’s nightmare.
The Torajans view buffalo as almost sacred and the bigger the buffalo the more prestige a family has who own it. Pigs too are highly regarded and are seen as a symbol of the mother - nurturing and producer of many babies. Obviously, both are seen as quite tasty food too!
At the market, the buffalo seemed to be well taken care of as some can fetch thousands of pounds but it was the pigs I felt sorry for. Some of them were trussed up on crates waiting to be taken away and some of the squealing was horrific. And as for walking around the buffalo ring - I was a bit scared as some of them were huge but they were docile enough although the rings through their noses helped with restraining them.
Mat also got lots of giggly girls fawning over him again. Some didn’t even ask permission to take his photo and just snapped away on their camera phones. Others deliberately brushed past him. It is really incredible all the attention he is receiving. It’s like being with a budget George Clooney the way some of the ladies are carrying on. He is being very blasé about it but I’m sure he is secretly loving it all. Me? I’m still being asked if I’m Indonesian and not getting a look in at all!
Also, we have moved hotels. It was all going well until about 5am this morning when a load of motorbike horns woke us up again. Not impressed we first moved to the suite at the Indra Toraja but our guide suggested this hotel - the Luta Resort Toraja which is just around the corner.
It’s all a bit swanky swish as it’s new and apparently would have been Indra Toraja’s new extension upgrade until new management took over. We managed to get a deluxe room for the price of a standard by playing hardball although management didn’t have much choice as we pointed out that they weren’t exactly full occupancy at the moment.
Just hoping that the weather isn’t going to be as wet as today which has been awful. A complete deluge. As we were mostly travelling it didn’t really affect us but fingers crossed for our tour tomorrow.
Sunday 1st May
Rantepao
Tana Toraja
Southern Sulawesi
16.03
I can’t believe it is the first of May already. Doesn’t time fly? We have just got back from a full day of sight-seeing with our guide and driver. Really fascinating day where we learnt loads of Tana Toraja stuff although I am a little ‘graved’ out. I think Mat feels the same. I know that historically and archaeologically it is all important and significant but right now I feel a bit like that boy from ‘Sixth Sense’ when he says he sees dead people.
I think I have seen more graves in mountains and trees, hanging coffins, skeletons and skulls today than I ever will. And these were just from a few hundred years ago to about 2008. Not even an actual funeral attended yet! Our man is still on death-alert and our schedule here is dependent on that. Blimey, what with all my cancer experiences, it’s a good job I’m not too sensitive about these things!
Anyway, the weather held out although we did get a little showered on but nothing major. We got to see some amazing scenery and lots of water buffalo. During our wanders Mat kept getting Indonesians asking if they could have their photo taken with him what with him being all tall, white and blue-eyed. I think that’s the reason and not because he looks a little bit like Harry Potter but you never know...
I mistakenly ended up in one photo with him and the group chased Mat again and requested another photo with him without asking me to be in it! Charming.
I have had quite a few Indonesians chat away to me only to be disappointed when I say I no speak Bahasa. Apparently, a lot of them think I am from Java - not quite sure why but Java being the most cosmopolitan part of Indonesia, I think its my short hair that’s doing it. I have yet to see women here with hair as short as mine.
Never mind taking photos of Mat, the children we have been meeting have been absolutely adorable and very friendly although they run away past the first ‘hello’ and ‘how are you’. I may end up with one in my rucksack as they are so cute.
Tourist wise, the whole region is fairly quiet at the moment with only a handful of non-Indonesians including us wandering around. The roads are bad enough now so I can only imagine what it is like during the summer months when it is full capacity here. We have been told that Toraja has three seasons - dry, wet and tourist! I think it would drive me insane being here during the height of the tourist season. It is bad enough negotiating the tiny roads now when you have to let other vehicles through every five minutes, so I can only imagine the frustration in the summer months with the intense heat and other visitors milling about. Everything also doubles/triples in price but needs must and all that for the Torajans.
Mat has gone for an explore round the town looking for ear plugs and I am going for a massage. We forgot to bring our ear plugs and when you get some wally that has drilled holes in his scooter exhaust fronting up like it’s a motorbike it is VERY NOISY especially as there is no double glazing in the hotel. We can’t really do anything about it as motorbikes/scooters are the main form of transport round here but just want to avoid another episode of the Rantepao ‘yoot’ giving it large like last night. I think it was because it was Saturday night and you know what boys and girls are like when they are trying to impress each other.
Anyway, not quite sure when this is going to be posted as internet connection here is really bad. Over and out for now.
Mat’s just got back and apparently no ear plugs - he was told that Indonesians round here just stick tissues in their ears!
22.36
Just back from a delicious meal at a local restaurant recommended by LP. We will probably go back there tomorrow to sample traditional Torajan food as they needed at least 2 hours notice apparently to prepare it. I’m quite looking forward to tasting buffalo as I have never had it.
Had an embarrassing experience at my massage earlier. I was expecting a foot massage but the lady mis-heard ‘full massage’ and must have thought I looked a complete fool as I lay there fully clothed with my trousers rolled up to my knees. I think she was trying not to laugh as she discretely told me to disrobe and I got all weirded out as I thought how strange for a foot massage until I realised what was going on! Anyway, it was great all the same.
Also, I wont be needing the ear plugs tonight as it is all quiet outside. Apart from the odd puut puut of a bike and the rain (yet again!), its peaceful. Fantastic. Another early start tomorrow so I’m off for some zeds now. Bonne nuit.
Monday 2nd May
Rantepao
Tana Toraja
Southern Sulawesi
17.04
Blimey. We walk into our room, turn the TV on and breaking news is that Osama Bin Laden is dead. Wow. We’re not quite sure of the facts as we can’t find an English speaking news channel but we have worked out enough to know from Indonesian news that he is dead and the Americans somehow are involved. Talk about reality crashing into our world!
We had another good day sight-seeing today. Not so many graves but more picturesque villages and absolutely stunning scenery. Mile upon mile of amazing views of rice terraces, mountains and forests. It’s days like this that I am happy to be alive and grateful that I am lucky enough to be able to see and experience such incredible vistas. As our guide Yatim said, ‘it’s like paradise’. I don’t think any of our photos will do any of the views we saw justice. As we were venturing higher and higher up into the mountains, it got a little hairy on the tiny mountain roads which were even narrower and more pot-holed. As I have said previously, it’s a good job Mr Tan is a good driver! It all got a bit white knuckle ride at some points.
The weather now is atrocious. Absolutely bucketing it down. No wonder everything is so lush and green up here - it is all this frikkin rain! Bright sunshine for half the day and then rain. We were supposed to go trekking earlier but our guide cancelled it as he didn’t want us ending up like buffalos i.e. in the mud and for that I was grateful. I think if Mat was on his own he would have gone for it but as he is with me, you can forget it. I’m quite happy to be trekking in the mini-van thank you very much even though it is a little bone jarring at times!
We saw a couple at a rest stop in the mountains while we were having drinks and I did feel a little sorry for the girl in the couple. She looked such a fragile thing (I think she was Japanese) and I got the impression she would rather not have been trekking. She looked a bit fed up and hot and I did feel for her as they set off amongst the rice terraces and forests just as the heavens opened big stylee. Oh dear. Ever practical, Mat was more concerned about them having covers for their rucksacks!
This morning was blazing sunshine and we spent part of it at Rantepao’s main market, Pasar Bolu. As It’s only held every six days our guide felt that we had to experience it. It felt like the whole of Tana Toraja was there today especially in the livestock market. What an eye opener and every vegetarian and animal rights person’s nightmare.
The Torajans view buffalo as almost sacred and the bigger the buffalo the more prestige a family has who own it. Pigs too are highly regarded and are seen as a symbol of the mother - nurturing and producer of many babies. Obviously, both are seen as quite tasty food too!
At the market, the buffalo seemed to be well taken care of as some can fetch thousands of pounds but it was the pigs I felt sorry for. Some of them were trussed up on crates waiting to be taken away and some of the squealing was horrific. And as for walking around the buffalo ring - I was a bit scared as some of them were huge but they were docile enough although the rings through their noses helped with restraining them.
Mat also got lots of giggly girls fawning over him again. Some didn’t even ask permission to take his photo and just snapped away on their camera phones. Others deliberately brushed past him. It is really incredible all the attention he is receiving. It’s like being with a budget George Clooney the way some of the ladies are carrying on. He is being very blasé about it but I’m sure he is secretly loving it all. Me? I’m still being asked if I’m Indonesian and not getting a look in at all!
Also, we have moved hotels. It was all going well until about 5am this morning when a load of motorbike horns woke us up again. Not impressed we first moved to the suite at the Indra Toraja but our guide suggested this hotel - the Luta Resort Toraja which is just around the corner.
It’s all a bit swanky swish as it’s new and apparently would have been Indra Toraja’s new extension upgrade until new management took over. We managed to get a deluxe room for the price of a standard by playing hardball although management didn’t have much choice as we pointed out that they weren’t exactly full occupancy at the moment.
They tried to offer us the presidential suite but we thought this would have been a little OTT for a couple more days here! It’s seriously lovely here and the best bit is we are right at the back by the river, so no motorbike noise. We had a little explore earlier and made friends with the hotel parrot by the infinity pool and even sneaked into the presidential suite for a nosey! The door was open and there was no one around. Did it look like Barack Obama would stay in there? Probably but the highlight for me was the bar area as I could just see myself propping it up doing my best Peggy Mitchell impression, “get outta my pub!”
Anyway, Rocky 3 is on and I love a bit of ‘eye of the tiger’ so over and out for now!
21:58
Back at Hotel Luta. Had our Torajan dinner at restaurant Remiko which consisted of buffalo with coconut cooked in a bamboo tube and buffaloo with 'black spice'. Both served with black rice. We're still not sure what this 'black spice' is and overall it was ok but I'm still not sure I would seek out Torajan food.
It all seemed a bit heavy to me. The buffalo tasted just like tender beef and the black rice was a little off-putting. It looked like a lump of tar on my plate and didn't really taste of anything. Luckily there wasn't a power cut as Mat wouldn't have seen his food what with the black rice and buffalo with black spice on his plate!
Also, word on the street is that there is a funeral ceremony going on tomorrow so Mat and I and about every other tourist here in Toraja will be probably be there bearing gifts of sugar and cigarettes - standard Torajan gifts supposedly. Hope it is interesting.
Off to get some sleep now - hopefully without motorbike noise disturbance! Bonne nuit :-)
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