Tues 10th May
As our final Indonesian destination is only a three hour drive away from Ubud, we thought we could kill two birds with one stone by incorporating a side trip to various temples and some of Bali’s other attractions on our way there. We figured it would make the trip a little more interesting and our driver was more than happy to do this.
Talk about a good idea! We took in the Hindu temples at Pura Taman Ayun, Pura Lunur Batukau and Pura Ulun Danu. Really loved Pura Lunur Batukau only because it was so peaceful and serene here. There were only a handful of tourists including us and the beautiful lakeside setting made me feel quite spiritual. There were a few Indonesians making offerings at the temple which added to the atmosphere and serenity of the place. Never mind Ubud, if I wanted to find myself and get spiritual enlightenment, I would go here, no questions.
Pura Ulun Danu however was another story. Full of tourists and tacky little shops, it would have been beautiful and serene but I think this had long gone. There was even a photo shoot going on with a few models being told to “make love to the camera” by an Indonesian David Bailey type so there they were, wearing what looked like wedding gowns with one on a boat desperately trying not to fall off and another reclining like a dying swan on the beach. Perfect smiles set. Beautiful.
Bali Botanical Gardens was also worth a visit. We marveled at the fantastic exotic plants and flowers although a lot of the orchids in the orchid house had not flowered yet. Shame as I can imagine them to be absolutely stunning. A few were out but it would have been great to see some more.
Lunch was at a local warung near Pura Ulun Danu where our driver had lunch with us. We had Indonesian teenagers eating to our right and a motorbike repair shop to our left and the food was absolutely delicious. I’m not sure what our driver was expecting when we said we would treat him to lunch but I bet he was hoping for the Bali equivalent of the Ivy or at least a 'restaurant panoramique' but instead we take him to a warung! Never mind. I think he enjoyed it all the same as testified by all the empty plates.
We then drove through yet more breathtaking rice terraces, visited a coffee plantation and the beautiful mountain areas around Munduk. Absolutely stunning. This is the Bali I wanted to see.
And at around 4pm we arrived here at our resort in Pemuteran where it’s rather nice. There are only a handful of resorts here on the beach, a few warungs outside the resorts and a small town. Fantastic. This is what some parts of southern Bali probably looked like around 30 years ago before the mass influx of tourism. Sadly, I can see this place going the same way although I am hoping it doesn’t for a while yet.
We are at the Taman Sari Resort where it is all rather lovely. Beautiful manicured lawns and gardens, villas, suites and rooms. It is the sort of place where you can imagine some celebrity would go to recuperate from their plastic surgery in secret as a lot of the villas are secluded and this place is so peaceful. Not being a celebrity and not having had plastic surgery we are in the cheap seats but very nice all the same!
Mat is doing his diving at Reef Seen which is a five minute walk from here and apparently highly regarded. More importantly, they have baby turtles!
Pemuteran is home to the Reef Seen Turtle Project where turtle eggs and small turtles are looked after until they are ready for release in the ocean. It’s a non-profit organisation and helps with turtle conservation. The baby turtles are soooo cute, I think we may end up with one in our hand carry as Mat is beyond in love with them. I prefer Badi the badass big turtle they have who loves and almost begs you to stroke his shell. Apparently, Badi is too tame now to be released back into the ocean so they are keeping him at the sanctuary.
There is also an artificial reef that they have set up here to encourage coral growth. I haven’t ventured out to see it yet but Mat wholeheartedly approves.
I think we are going to like it here.
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