Ubud - Eat, Pray, Leave

Sun-Mon (8-9 May)

Firstly, has someone closed France? As in its borders? Anyone? Marc, do you know? Are they not letting its citizens in so they are having to go elsewhere? Like here in Bali for example? Have we missed something in the news? Everywhere we go we are hearing French being spoken and French accents trying to speak English. They are everywhere. Even the couple next door are French. I hadn’t realised the French liked Bali so much!

Anyway, our first full day in Ubud completed (Sun 8^th May) and I’m still a little unsure as to what I think of the place. I feel a bit like Switzerland - neutral and neither here nor there about it. Although it is very nice here. We arrived at Denpassar airport around 11.30 Saturday night and got to our hotel just before 1am.

Mat and I had purposely avoided the southern Bali holiday hotspots of Kuta, Legian etc because we wanted to avoid the tourist crowds and the hedonism that goes with it.  We sort of have and we haven’t here. Ubud is so far removed from the Indonesia that we have been experiencing these last two weeks my head is a little bit discombobulated.  Parts of Monkey Forest road and its surrounding street have so many little chi-chi shops it looks a bit like Weybridge high street. 

The most striking thing for me is the sheer number of tourists here - and this is supposed to be a quieter part of Bali. I have mentioned the French but in addition there are dozens of Americans, Australians, Italians, Brits, Japanese, Spanish and a load more besides. There is no distinct demographic either as Ubud seems to attract a real mish-mash of people. I can see why as it is a very easy destination to settle into. Tranquil rice terraces, temples and shrines galore, more hotels & villas than you can dream of, even more spas, shopping mania, loads of restaurants and bars and of course, Indonesian friendliness and charm. Although I do feel the Indonesians we have been meeting here seem a little more distant, still friendly but a bit more jaded perhaps.

We are staying at Okawati Hotel. It’s ok but I think in it’s time it would have been more splendid. Lots of stone carvings and statues, nice garden and pool, friendly staff but all a little 1980s for my taste although I am sure some would call it ‘vintage’. Apparently, Okawati (the lady who owns it) was one of the pioneers of the homestay here in Ubud and her hotel just grew from there. It is very well set, a 2 minute walk down a couple of little roads off the Monkey Forest Road so still central Ubud but away from the hustle and bustle and noise. And the breakfasts are to die for and delivered on to our balcony on time too. Lovely. 

Speaking of food, we have had some great meals here. Given the number of tourists, competition is fierce and so the quality of warungs and restaurants here are very good. Our satay meal on Saturday night was absolutely delicious. And we discovered a warung off one of the main streets where you choose how much you want to eat and a lady decides how much you should pay. Love it - price dependent on whether you have had big boy portions or not. Mat and I were on the lower scale just in case you were wondering!

The other noteworthy observation here in Ubud is the deep sense of religion and spirituality about the place. As I have mentioned there are Hindu temples galore and shrines every few yards and bundles of offerings to the gods every few steps. All in between the gods of Paul Smith, Ralph Lauren, Versace, Billabong to name but a few...

Om santi, santi, om.....

This ‘Eat Pray Love’ book/film has a lot to answer for. There are so many western ladies here travelling alone and being all ‘om’ and looking to get ‘spiritual’ amongst the rice terraces with their very own Javier Bardem it’s incredible. Ladies of a certain age, younger ladies wanting some R&R from the excesses of Kuta and ladies wanting their chakras realigned...in more ways than one!

You can spot them a mile away. Wearing clothing with Hindu gods on, carrying a yoga mat and that air of ‘peace’ and ‘finding themselves’ about them.  There is even a ‘Bali Happy Movement’ here.  It’s all a bit disappearing up your own backside if you ask me but each to their own.

           

As Mat pointed out, given the ratio of single women to men here, Ubud is a single blokes dream destination. I’m feeling vulnerable right now... Om...

We spent Monday morning by going on a long walk through the Monkey Forest and surrounding villages around Ubud. It was good to leave the crowds behind but it all got a bit too hot towards the end. I was glad to be wearing my hat otherwise I’m sure I would have fainted as the heat here is unrelenting.   

The macaques in the Monkey Forest were very cute to watch but one of them got a little too friendly with Mat as it scampered about on his head and wouldn’t let go! It started gnawing at his hand too which was a little worrying but fortunately Mat’s skin wasn’t punctured in any way and he was able to shake the macaque off. Budget George Clooney attracts simians too!

The rest of the day was spent relaxing by the pool, more spa treatments for me and more toot buying. I’m hoping our last few days in northern Bali will be more tranquil.